Partridge Jewellers has been polishing its expertise more than 130 years but it says it has a long way to go before becoming an master in making gems with the world’s most rare diamonds.
The retailer has recently became the first and only select atelier in New Zealand for the world’s largest producer of pink diamonds Argyle mine in the remote Kimberley region of Western Australia. It is now the official New Zealand partner to Rio Tinto’s Argyle pink diamond business.
The Argyle mine produces more than 90% of the world’s supply of rare pink diamonds, which are between 10 and 50 times more expensive than white diamonds. Its price largely based on its colour and rarity and not on the usual characteristics of its white counterparts.
Grant Partridge, a fifth generation Partridge family member who has been in the business for more than 35 years and who is currently runs the company, said working with pink diamonds is very different to working with white.
“Although we know a lot about white diamonds, about jewellery manufacturing and watches, [pink diamonds] are quite new to us and there is a lot more to learn about.”
The jewellers have to completely restructure the way they work due to the extreme rarity of the pinks.
“Traditionally when you make a piece of jewellery, you drill the hole for the diamonds and then you would measure up and put the right diamonds in them, he said.
“But we found that it doesn’t work with pink diamonds. It’s the opposite way: you need to start with the diamonds lay them out and design the piece of metal around all the little diamonds.”
If jewellers go with the traditional way and make a setting first, often they will find that there won’t be enough pink diamonds for the design available at the mine. Because they are so rare it is often impossible to find the right colour and size in desirable quantities.
“And we’ve learnt this because we had to remake quite a few pieces because we finally get the stones there they don’t fit the design.
“I knew they were rare but I didn’t realise just how rare they were until we started trying to make some jewellery with them.”
Josephine Archer, Argyle Pink Diamonds business manager, said out of all diamonds the mine produces, which includes white, champagne and brown, pinks only make 0.1% of what comes out of the mine and can be held “in two hands”.
Grant Partridge’s daughter Nicola Partridge, who has completed a jewellery design degree at AUT university and is currently studying towards a marketing degree to join the family business, has a keen interest in working with the world’s rare diamonds.
“She’s just designed two pink diamond rings. One sold before we actually made it, said Mr Partridge.
“She is way way different from what I am. For me, growing up in the business through the years, you become a businessman that loves jewellery.
“The artistic side has come back out on her. She is extremely creative.”
Kristina Koveshnikova
Wed, 11 Jul 2018